Continuing our theme of Ask Pandora – our mystery guide to yachting in the Windward Islands. The islands really are that idyllic for great sailing, but in between the sailing times here’s some pointers to getting on with the local residents of Bequia, Union, Carriacou and other islands in the Grenadines chain. Follow this and you’ll be popular with everyone!
1. Be polite
People in the Caribbean are unfailingly polite. Try it and you’ll find it works here better than anywhere! Very old fashioned but you’ll get the hang of it and realize how charming it is. Use “good morning/ afternoon/ evening” and keep away from the straight “hello” or “hi” as they’re just not effective. A word of warning – you may get confused as the locals will tend to say “good evening” to you anytime after midday and “good night” even though you don’t feel like going to bed yet! If you think you catch on and say “good afternoon” in the morning I’m afraid this will not work at all. Local rules.
2. Take your time and have a chat
It may be your first beer ashore since a long upwind sail and you’re parched, or you really need a part in a local chandlery urgently, but the locals work on “island time”, a unique blip in the time space continuum, that has the effect of slowing down even further if you try to rush it. So regardless of your need, start with point 1, then progress that to a polite chat which usually means enquiring after someone’s health and/or day so far. A minute or two of that before getting down to asking for whatever it is you want from that person and you’ll be amazed at the big smile you’ll receive in return along with that beer etc that you really need. Try to make it happen without what the locals consider to be simple good manners and you’ll be wondering why the other bloke at the bar who got there after you is already sipping his cold Carib.
3. Buying your fruit & veg
Most stores have tinned and frozen stuff leaving you to buy your fresh fruit and veg from market stalls often run by the island Rasta’s who by virtue of their religion are vegetarian so know a thing or two about what they are selling, or the venerable market ladies. Both these groups of fruit and veg vendors are canny sales people, so be prepared to haggle but do it in a friendly non-aggressive way. You’ll be amazed at the amount you walk out of the Rasta market with having only popped in for a pineapple or couple of mangoes. The Rasta market in Bequia is probably the best known. And don’t forget to ‘spread the love’, that is, be prepared to buy a little something from everyone rather than all your stuff from one vendor. Then everyone is happy.
4. Dealing with the ‘boat boys’
Especially prevalent in the southern part of the Caribbean chain of islands these enterprising guys in their colourful motor boats will approach you regularly offering anything from a mooring ball to tie up to, to fresh lobster, ice, or a T-shirt. Some people see them as an irritation but remember these islands are poor by many standards and these guys are simply trying to make a living. So treat them with respect and good manners and you’ll find they can be very helpful and not a hassle at all. Look them in the eye, ask them their name, (it’ll help you both next time you see them) and be firm but polite about accepting or declining what they have to offer. They’re the only way to buy that freshly baked warm loaf of bread in the morning as you swing at anchor in the Tobago Cays!
5. Be considerate of other yachties
It’s the simple stuff really that makes a big difference. Keep the music down, not everybody enjoys your 80’s classics played full volume. Go slowly past other yachts and never too close to their bow, your keel and their anchor chain are never good friends. Take your time anchoring, drop 5 times the depth of chain and wait at least half an hour before leaving the boat (and even better, dive on the anchor), to make sure it has held fully. The wind can change direction and be gusty in squalls and some anchorages are subject to strong currents, so leave plenty of room to swing safely.
So, smile and be nice and the Caribbean will smile on you.
February 5, 2010
Grenada and the Grenadines