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Ask Pandora – A Guide to Good ‘Liming’

Monday, March 1st, 2010 | Author: James

You can’t be in the Caribbean without coming across this term ‘liming’(Or limin’) but it’s not a term you will ever find in the English dictionary. So what’s it all about? Well It‘s hanging out, doing what you like doing, usually with friends and generally in a relaxed fashion. ‘Liming’ is part of the chilled Caribbean way of life but it’s also a mindset and when you’ve finished sailing the warm waters and come ashore ‘liming’ is just something you should do. So here’s just some of Pandora’s favourite places to ‘lime’ between Grenada and Bequia

Grenada
With its location right next to a boatyard and a chandlery in the north western corner of Prickly Bay, plus its 2 for 1 Happy Hour, De Big Fish Bar and Restaurant is always full of thirsty hard core live-aboard yachties. If you want to hear some great sea stories and ask any question you can think of about sailing, just come here and strike up a conversation, with anyone. Meanwhile in town, after a few hours wondering around St George’s and its’ amazing market (Saturdays are best) you can sample cooking with all the spices you have just seen at Pandora’s favourite Caribbean food restaurant BB’s Crab back at the northwest end of the Carenage – on the water’s edge of one of the World’s most picturesque harbours.

Carriacou
Most people head to Tyrell Bay to anchor, but the most relaxed and beautiful place on the island is Paradise Beach. Too shallow to anchor you can dinghy across from nearby Sandy Island or walk or take a taxi from Tyrell. The north end is home to Fidel Productions the Caribbean’s most creative and unique T-shirts featuring local artists. After that, stroll down this stunning beach to the south end and hang out at Curtis’s Off the Hook Bar and Restaurant where a chilled Carib beer gazing at the view across to Union Island with sand in your toes is just perfect.

Union Island
An island of 2 halves featuring busy bustling Clifton Bay and peaceful blissed out Chatham Bay. For a spot of Euro-chic style Pandora loves to stop at the French owned Bougainvilla Hotel with its L’Aquarium Bar for a much welcome ‘Ti Punch after arriving in Clifton. But for some local flava The Twilight Bar just off the main square is the place to go. The drinks are cheap, the place is always buzzing and the owner plays a mean guitar most evenings. On the other side of the island tranquil Chatham Bay has one dirt track and no phone or wifi. In the beginning there was just Shark Attack who set up his famous beach BBQ’s. Now others have followed setting up Beach Bars powered by car batteries. Vanessa and Seckie’s Sun & Beach Bar is one of Pandora’s fav’s for a rum punch and a great BBQ meal, something that TV chef Anthony Bourdain sampled a couple of weeks ago as part of his latest TV series. Meanwhile Antonio’s is a posh new place at the south end of the beach with its own pool and dinghy dock which has just opened. Could it be Chatham Bay is going upmarket?

Mayreau
2 great bays, one town with no name and just one road, but Mayreau has loads of charm. To get in the mood for laid back ‘liming’ walk to the church at the top of the hill for a stunning view of Tobago Cays in the magical light of dusk and soak up the chilled vibe with the locals at Righteous Roberts Rasta Bar. You’ll leave feeling extremely mellow!

Mustique
There’s more than just celeb spotting to do on this pristine piece of paradise. A walk from Britannia Bay down the leeward beach of Lagoon through the cool shade of the old palm plantation is perfectly topped off with a dip in the always empty Gelliceaux Beach.
Basil’s Bar on the water is the famous place but Pandora’s loves to ‘lime’ at sunset with a “Praying Mantis’ cocktail in hand halfway up the hill at Firefly where the huge picture window affords a sensational view of your boat below and the sun dropping into the sea.

Bequia
There are so many places to check out in this favourite yachtie island with the fabulous big natural harbour that is Admiralty Bay, that it’s hard to choose where to go, but after a splash on Princess Margaret Beach you can’t beat the perfectly positioned Jack’s Bar right there on the sand. Closer to town on the Belmont Walkway The Green Boley with its cheap but tasty roti’s always pulls in a crowd from lunchtime to late in the evening often with impromptu jam sessions led by a local singer/guitarist who lives out the back. Then on the north side of the harbour for quirky charm and good live music every Friday Devil’s Table always delivers for the party animal onboard. But there’s more to Bequia than just Admiralty Bay. Stan and Elizabeth of Firefly in Mustique have set up Firefly in Spring, a beautiful restored plantation house that does fab fresh fruit smoothies and in Friendship Bay on the south of the island the Moskito Bar has swings at the bar to sit on!

For photos of where to lime click here

Happy Liming!

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Ask Pandora – How to Win Friends and Influence People!

Friday, February 5th, 2010 | Author: James

Continuing our theme of Ask Pandora – our mystery guide to yachting in the Windward Islands. The islands really are that idyllic for great sailing, but in between the sailing times here’s some pointers to getting on with the local residents of Bequia, Union, Carriacou and other islands in the Grenadines chain. Follow this and you’ll be popular with everyone!

1. Be polite
People in the Caribbean are unfailingly polite. Try it and you’ll find it works here better than anywhere! Very old fashioned but you’ll get the hang of it and realize how charming it is. Use “good morning/ afternoon/ evening” and keep away from the straight “hello” or “hi” as they’re just not effective. A word of warning – you may get confused as the locals will tend to say “good evening” to you anytime after midday and “good night” even though you don’t feel like going to bed yet! If you think you catch on and say “good afternoon” in the morning I’m afraid this will not work at all. Local rules.

2. Take your time and have a chat
It may be your first beer ashore since a long upwind sail and you’re parched, or you really need a part in a local chandlery urgently, but the locals work on “island time”, a unique blip in the time space continuum, that has the effect of slowing down even further if you try to rush it. So regardless of your need, start with point 1, then progress that to a polite chat which usually means enquiring after someone’s health and/or day so far. A minute or two of that before getting down to asking for whatever it is you want from that person and you’ll be amazed at the big smile you’ll receive in return along with that beer etc that you really need. Try to make it happen without what the locals consider to be simple good manners and you’ll be wondering why the other bloke at the bar who got there after you is already sipping his cold Carib.

3. Buying your fruit & veg
Most stores have tinned and frozen stuff leaving you to buy your fresh fruit and veg from market stalls often run by the island Rasta’s who by virtue of their religion are vegetarian so know a thing or two about what they are selling, or the venerable market ladies. Both these groups of fruit and veg vendors are canny sales people, so be prepared to haggle but do it in a friendly non-aggressive way. You’ll be amazed at the amount you walk out of the Rasta market with having only popped in for a pineapple or couple of mangoes. The Rasta market in Bequia is probably the best known. And don’t forget to ‘spread the love’, that is, be prepared to buy a little something from everyone rather than all your stuff from one vendor. Then everyone is happy.

4. Dealing with the ‘boat boys’
Especially prevalent in the southern part of the Caribbean chain of islands these enterprising guys in their colourful motor boats will approach you regularly offering anything from a mooring ball to tie up to, to fresh lobster, ice, or a T-shirt. Some people see them as an irritation but remember these islands are poor by many standards and these guys are simply trying to make a living. So treat them with respect and good manners and you’ll find they can be very helpful and not a hassle at all. Look them in the eye, ask them their name, (it’ll help you both next time you see them) and be firm but polite about accepting or declining what they have to offer. They’re the only way to buy that freshly baked warm loaf of bread in the morning as you swing at anchor in the Tobago Cays!

5. Be considerate of other yachties
It’s the simple stuff really that makes a big difference. Keep the music down, not everybody enjoys your 80’s classics played full volume. Go slowly past other yachts and never too close to their bow, your keel and their anchor chain are never good friends. Take your time anchoring, drop 5 times the depth of chain and wait at least half an hour before leaving the boat (and even better, dive on the anchor), to make sure it has held fully. The wind can change direction and be gusty in squalls and some anchorages are subject to strong currents, so leave plenty of room to swing safely.

So, smile and be nice and the Caribbean will smile on you.

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Ask Pandora – What do I wear when sailing in the Grenadines?

Wednesday, January 13th, 2010 | Author: James

It’s the night before you get on the plane to your dream sailing holiday and you’re faced with that well-known traveler’s dilemma of what to pack. What you need to know is how to look cool and groovy in the Caribbean. Well, Pandora knows what’s appropriate and what’s not. So please take heed and wear these at your peril:

Starting at the feet. Crocs. The bright plastic holey clog type things. They’re just plain ugly. The brighter the colour, the worse they are. The only exception to this is Pandora’s friend George Brown, who is so eccentric and wonderfully odd that he can just about get away with wearing them, but only with his French Foreign legion sunhat on and various tools jangling from his belt on his khaki jungle shorts. For the rest of you forget it. And if you have to wear deck shoes, (Pandora is not a fan), definitely no white socks with them! The acceptable footwear for the groovy Caribbean Cruiser is bare feet on the boat and flip flops when ashore (preferably Havaianas).
Shorts – less stringent rules here, pretty much anything goes apart from 2 varieties;
1. any kind of athletic nylon type shorts. So no running shorts and most definitely no football shorts (but then let’s face it, everyone should be banned from wearing them unless your name’s David Beckham). They’re just not the scene in Bequia.
2. Three quarter length short long things (I don’t even know what they are called), but they stop somewhere mid shin. They either make you look the a midget in shorts or someone who’s trousers shrunk in the wash. Best idea, use the scissors and turn them into knee length cut offs (no hems). That looks much better!
And while we are at it, for the avoidance of doubt…….definitely no white linen drawstring trousers unless you are a Calvin Klein model.
T-shirts/shirts – No local T-shirts to be worn within 100 miles of the location they were purchased from. Nothing nylon, (including the horror football shirt whatever the code of football) and no singlets/vests (unless you are a lady). Acceptable top type clothing includes faded soft T-shirts with a hint of an old design on them and crumpled long sleeve cotton shirts with the sleeves rolled up and never worn tucked in.
Hats – a tricky area this, as they are a very good idea in this sunny climate but are hard to pull off looking cool in without them blowing off in the wind. For this reason the cute straw pork pie hat which does look good is impractical in the wind. So the ubiquitous baseball cap is reluctantly considered acceptable as long as it is not new, has no obvious big logo on it or is that ‘trucker’ type. For girls the military style cap works well. Straw cowboy hats are out. Really out. Even lounging on the beach. Yes, Pandora used to love them, but they’ve had their day.
Swimsuits – Men. Nothing less than mid thigh and casually baggy please. Unless you are under 16, no loud colours and neon is totally out whatever your age. You’ll only scare the fish in the Tobago Cays when you swim and that’s unkind. Of course, nothing skimpy or tight (What are known as “budgie smugglers” in Australia) and definitely no underwear masquerading as swimmers!
Ladies – bikinis only. One piece costumes are so mumsy and those comedy cut out ones will give you a ridiculous tan line. But girls this is not the south of France, keep your bits covered unless you are anchored way out please. In the Grenadines the locals are very traditional in their views.
Suncream – Not really clothing, but an essential accessory for looking cool in the Caribbean. It’s close to the equator here, the sun is strong and nothing says “muppet tourist on holiday” more than a ruddy sunburned face and body. There’s just no way to make that look work. So slap it on, all the time and try to avoid the midday sun. Do what the locals do. Take a snooze in the shade.

For some photos of examples of what to wear or not to wear click here!

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Ask Pandora – A guide to Christmas afloat in the Grenadines

Wednesday, December 16th, 2009 | Author: James

Are you one of the lucky few about to relinquish the arduousness of Christmas at home for a floating one in the tropical waters of the Caribbean? Congratulations! But where to go when you get here? For those of you heading for the Grenadines (congratulations again!) help is at hand with our new Blog Advisor “Ask Pandora” Who is Pandora? Perhaps if you’re very patient all will be revealed – but certainly NOT for a long while yet! Decide from the choices below what best suits yourself and your crew and follow Pandora’s essential guide to Christmas in the Grenadines!

Firstly, despite the temperatures and lack of chimneys for Santa, Christmas is still big in the Caribbean, based on good old family values and a strong sense of tradition. Sometimes it’s bizarrely incongruous, such as inflatable reindeer parked on the side of the road, or completely over the top festive light competitions between neighbouring houses that bring sightseers from the other end of the island.

Christmas food here still includes turkey and ham but also has a fascinating local blend of local fare including baked chicken, stewed mutton or goat, rice, peas, ginger beer, sorrel (a deep red drink made from flowers of the sorrel plant) and black cake – a very heavy rich fruit cake laced with local rum. On a yacht why not be completely decadent and order up fresh local lobster cooked and prepared from the local fisherman?

For shopping in the Grenadines Pandora recommends Captain’s Gourmet in Union Island (full of mouth watering French delicacies), Doris’s Fresh Foods in Bequia and for Christmas booze there’s no cheaper than Matthew’s in Petite Martinique.

So who do you want to be?

The Party Animal
Bequia. You and at least 200 other boats in Admiralty Bay will love their party version of Nine Mornings Festival unique to the Grenadines (which has typically morphed into evenings as well), and raucous beach BBQ’s. Best sleep during the day.

The Family Affair
Carriacou. Anchor at yachtie’s favourite Tyrell Bay and take a short taxi ride (Call Linky on Ch 68) or walk to nearby Paradise Beach where the kids will enjoy the mile long white sand and incredibly calm waters and mum and dad will enjoy the 180 degree stunning view across to Sandy Island and the cold beers at Curtis’ Off the Hook Beach Bar.

The Glamour Sophisticate
Mustique. Where the rich and famous come to play for some celeb spotting at Basil’s Bar or a fabulous martini mixed by Patrick at Firefly for a perfect sunset view of your yacht at Britannia Bay. Moorings are $200 EC for up to 3 days and Berris the Harbour Master will make sure you get a spot OK.

Just Get Away From It All (Or Bah Humbug Scrooge!)
Finally for those who just want to get away from it all and pretend it’s just another day (in paradise) there’s always:
The Tobago Cays. No bars, no music, no restaurant, few people, just some turtles to swim with and some fabulous reefs to snorkel over. BBQ turkey? Not recommended – see lobster above!
Chatham Bay, Union Island. The beautiful ‘forgotten’ side of Union. A wide peaceful remote bay with wonderful walks and snorkeling on the north side of the bay.

For some photos of your potential Christmas venue, click here

Next from Pandora – what to wear (or not to wear!) in the Grenadines…….

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This is how your chocolate starts!

Friday, December 11th, 2009 | Author: James

A short continuation on the chocolate theme: Wednesday was cocoa bean collection day at Belmont Estate; the Estate is involved in the first part of the process of producing the delicious chocolate made by the Grenada Chocolate Company. Local farmers gather at the “Boucan” having harvested their beans and removed from the shells. There are literally bucket loads of beans – each bucket marked by its owner with a particular type of herb or plant to distinguish it from the many others. There’s a lot of very patient waiting before each bucket is tipped into the wooden receiving tray, the odd piece of stray material removed and the beans inspected. They are then pushed into a large sack, weighed and deposited in the large wood sided “vats” where the fermentation process begins. It’s a very messy, slimy job as the beans are coated with pulp and it gets everywhere. To see the photos click here. It’s a far cry from your chocolate bar! To be continued…..

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Adventures at the north end of Grenada!

Tuesday, December 8th, 2009 | Author: James

Back in September we introduced our new “Chocolate Tour” to publicize the production of Grenada-made organic chocolate produced from locally grown cocoa beans. The chocolate is special – dark and very rich and is winning acclaim worldwide. If you’re in Grenada it’s well worth making the effort to visit the north of the island and come to Belmont Estate – the old plantation estate where the first part of the chocolate production process takes place. The beans are removed from their pods and fermented and dried before being ground to make chocolate. The smell from drying and fermenting beans is a long way from the chocolate itself! Belmont also has a goat dairy with a herd of very well pampered goats that are trying to fulfill the increasing weekly order for cheese from Grenada’s top hotels – they can’t get enough of the stuff! Also completely organic it comes in a variety of flavours, hot pepper is my favourite and it’s very spicy.
This Sunday Belmont were offering English Sunday lunch as well as the opening of a painting exhibition. To work up an appetite for lunch is easy – just head for the hills! There’s a myriad of paths and tracks that lead out from Belmont, shaded by cocoa trees and a plethora of other fruit trees at varying times groaning under the load of their fruit. My particular taste for exploring is by bike, so this time I set off to conquer Cuoblau Hill – probably the highest piece of paved road on the island. As I discovered, one of the steepest too – at one point touching 1 in 2.5! At the top the view’s rather spoiled by the antenna in the way but it’s still breathtaking. There’s a trail from here to St Katherines (highest mountain on Grenada) for the intrepid. I may be biased but Grenada really is a beautiful location. After (or before) your charter in the Grenadines you really must see this wonderful place! For photos see here For the Grenada Chocolate Company click here. For Belmont Estate website click here. For the mountain bike route click here

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Grenada Sailing Festival 2010 launched

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009 | Author: James

Last Friday, Grenada’s yachting community gathered at Camper & Nicholsons Port Louis Marina for the launch of the 2010 Grenada Sailing Festival. Port Louis Marina will be the headquarters of the 2010 Grenada Sailing Festival and with this in mind some changes to the regatta format have been announced. The keel boat series which starts with four days of south coast racing on January 29th will now be followed by the hugely successful Workboat Regatta staged on Grand Anse Beach instead of running concurrently. These two very different events have always run alongside each other in an effort to mix it up for all involved, but with the success of both events growing it was decided to separate the two so each benefits from the total focus that they so rightly deserve.

It was also announced that there will be longer racing courses, deep water marks laid and an extended South Coast Ocean triangle course to suit some of the larger racing yachts that they hope will attend. The traditional Mount Gay Red Cap party will be hosted at the Victory Bar in Port Louis Marina, now managed by the very talented Ulrich Kuhn, owner of the Aquarium Restaurant with the special responsibility to see that the Festival parties are spot on.

2010 will be the sixteenth year of running for the Sailing Festival. For further information see the Grenada Sailing Festival website here

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A travellers opinion of the Tobago Cays….

Wednesday, November 18th, 2009 | Author: James

Here’s a recent article on the Tobago Cays – Click here. Bear in mind that you could be on your own boat and not bound by someone else’s schedule. It’s true the Tobago Cays can get pretty busy in high season, especially with day trippers visiting – off small cruise ships like mentioned in this article. But the Cays is a huge area and there’s always somewhere to get away from it, and come later afternoon a lot of the visitors disappear as fast as the sun sinking below the horizon – no green flash for them! We will also tell you of the plethora of other stunning anchorages in the Grenadines – Sandy Island, Saltwhistle Bay, Petit St Vincent, Chatham Bay. Shhhh – don’t tell the others!

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Interesting articles just published on Grenada

Wednesday, November 11th, 2009 | Author: James

Alison Block of Gadling.com has just visited Grenada as part of a sponsored trip and has written various articles about the island. Check out the following:

“The Spice Isle: Where Trails are Paved in Nutmeg Shells”

“The Spice Isle: Moving on Past Hurricane Ivan”

“The Spice Isle: Nutmeg’s Always the Answer in Grenada”

“The Spice Isle: Making the Most of a Cruise Stopover in Grenada”

“The Spice Isle: What the Grenada Guidebooks Might Not Tell You”

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The top 10 isolated beaches in the Caribbean

Friday, October 23rd, 2009 | Author: Nicola

According to Away.com, this is the list of The Top-10 isolated beaches in the Caribbean.

Three of these beaches are within Grenada and the Grenadines cruising area, but I also have some other favourites of my own here….please ask! horizonyachts@spiceisle.com

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